A Course for Building Owners, Managers or Budding Tradesmen/women
Learn to evaluate, prioritise and plan the renovation of a building or part of a building; then enact that plan by either undertaking the work or managing the work, or both.
Building renovation projects may be large or small, costly or expensive, complex or simple. All such projects should be carefully considered with respect to these issues before anything is ever done.
Any project can be disruptive for a home owner or building manager. The longer it takes to complete, the more disruptive it can be. Give serious consideration to what is an acceptable level of disruption, and make sure everyone concerned understands the time frame which needs to be worked to.
For any project to be successful it should be realistically conceived and its execution should be planned to achieve a useful outcome within the constraints of financial and other resources available, and with a comfortable margin of error.
Face Reality from the Start!
Renovation projects often do not go exactly to plan. This is because there are inevitably unpredictable factors at play which can impact a project as you proceed. Always expect the unexpected.
Prepare for the unexpected by allocating more money and time than what you first think is needed. This way you have the unexpected covered; and if the unexpected does not happen; you will have a pleasant surprise.
There are 10 lessons in this course:
Introduction to Building Renovation Projects
Core Structural and Site Works.
Replacing/Repairing Roofs and Floors
Doors, Windows and walls
Renovating a Room
Each lesson culminates in an assignment which is submitted to the school, marked by the school's tutors and returned to you with any relevant suggestions, comments, and if necessary, extra reading.
Determine the nature and scope of work required for a building renovation project.
Explain how to prioritise and address the most important structural deficiencies in the early stages of any building renovation.
Explain how roofs and floors can be repaired or renovated in an old building.
Explain how doors and windows can be repaired or replaced in a building or room renovation.
Explain how plastering and tiling work is undertaken
Explain tools, techniques and applications for carpentry work in building repairs and renovations.
Explain selection and use of paints in interior and exterior decoration of buildings.
Explain plumbing work for renovation jobs
Explain electrical work for building renovations.
Plan and either manage or undertake the renovation of a room
WHY STUDY THIS COURSE?
- You may want to renovate your own home, or perhaps your place of work. Doing it yourself can not only save money, but provide more control over how the job is done; not to mention a wonderful sense of satisfaction when the job is completed.
- Learning to renovate can also enhance your employment skills. It can help you secure employment in the construction or property management industry; or lay a foundation for developing your own small service business.
- You may simply want to become a better handyman, to do more of the day to day maintenance at home or work, avoiding the cost and often wait, to get a tradesman in to fix a damaged floor or wall, or sort out a door that isn't working properly.
How to Hang a Door
If you need to replace a door the first thing to do is take measurements. It is best not to rely on measuring the existing door since it may well have been planed to fit so that each side of the door may have a slightly different length. You are better off measuring the door frame. Check the frame using a spirit level to see if it is square. If it has moved you can try adjusting it before taking measurements. You can tighten existing screws in the jamb, or add more screws or nails to draw the frame in.
Once you have your measurements subtract 4mm form the length and 4mm from the width to allow for a 2mm gap on all four sides of the door. This gives you your final door size. If the floor is to be covered with a raised surface e.g. carpet then you'll need to allow a larger gap beneath the bottom rail.
It is usually a good idea to buy a door which is slightly larger than you need since the frame will probably have moved slightly. This will allow you to shave some wood off the door to ensure a good fit. Nevertheless, you can't remove too much otherwise you'll compromise the structure of the door. For flush doors you can only remove a few millimetres.
Once you know the dimensions and have your door, to make adjustments to the height and width you'll need to plane the edges. To make the door slightly shorter, plane the bottom edge. Top make it slightly narrower, plane one upright edge (opposite the hinged edge). Before planing, make sure the door is securely held e.g. clamp it to a workbench. Measure the door and scribe a line where you wish to take the door height or width to. Make sure the blade in your hand plane is sharp and adjust it so it is straight and set to just take off fine shavings.
It is best to begin towards the centre of one edge and plane towards one corner, and then do the same on the other side. Position the plane so that it is on a slight angle facing inwards to avoid splintering the bottom edge of the door. Flip the door over and do the same on the other side. Then plane the middle of the edge. To remove larger amounts a belt sander would be more practical but you really need to know how to use one. Due to their power they can rip off a lot of wood in a short space of time.
Once your door is ready to hang, you will need someone to assist. Put the door into position in the frame and use wedges to hold it in place. Take it down and do some more planning if necessary. When you are happy with the door fit, it's time to measure the hinges for the door. Top hinges have a smaller gap and are placed anything from about 130 to 200mm from the top of the door. Bottom hinges are generally about 170 to 260mm from the bottom. For heavy doors a middle hinge will be needed.
Place the door back in position in the frame and once again support it on wedges. Now take the hinges and hold them flat against the door stile and mark the position of the top and bottom of the hinges onto the door and frame. Remove the door and square off the marks around the hanging stile of the door and the inside of the jamb. Cut out your marks with a hand saw and chisel out the timber to create your housing. The depth of the housing should be equal to the depth of the hinge's flange. If you accidentally take too much wood out then you'll need to pack it. With the hinge's in place use countersunk screws to fix the hinges to the door.
Next, wedge the door at right angles to the frame and push the flange of the top hinge into its housing. Secure it with one screw but don't screw it all the way in. Now adjust the floor wedge until the second hinge slides into its housing and screw into place. Tighten up the first screw and with just once screw in each hinge test the door to see if it opens and closes freely. If so go ahead and put in the remaining screws. If not, remove the door and make further adjustments.
Adjusting Existing Doors
Sometimes it is necessary to adjust existing doors which have become stuck or are binding. First inspect the frame. If it is out of alignment there are several possibilities. You might try using a rubber mallet or a lump hammer and straight edge to protect the door frame, and hit the door jamb. If there is no correction you may be able to tighten existing screws in the door jamb at the top or bottom. If not, it is possible to put in some extra screws through the jamb into the framework behind it. If that doesn't work you may be able to chisel a small amount off the frame itself but this would be a last resort. If the frame is considerably out of alignment then you may have to remove the door jambs and re-set them.
If the frame is all good, you may need to make amendments to doors. First, try to determine what type of door it is e.g. panel door or flush door and what it is made from before attempting to plane it. Some doors can't be planed e.g. some have plastic coatings. If the bottom rail is very shallow you could end up planning into the door's filling. To make adjustments look for where there are marks on the edge of the door. This shows where the door is sticking in the frame. To plane the door's edge, remove the door from the frame and clamp to a bench. In many cases you may not need to plane the door but can make adjustments by sanding the edge. You can do this by hand or with an orbital sander. Once again, look for where there are marks on the floor or door frame to determine exactly where the door is sticking.
If doors have been painted, then you will need to touch them up after planning or sanding. Ensure you have appropriate paint to finish the job but allow for the thickness of the paint finish when preparing the door otherwise you may have to sand down or strip off your new paintwork.
Note: Doors swell more in high humidity, e.g. winter months, so be careful not to take too much off because the door will shrink during low humidity. You may need to coat timber doors with a sealant to prevent swelling.
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