Garden Maintenance

Be a professional gardener: Learn how to operate an efficient garden maintenance business: lawn mowing, lawn repair, renovation, pruning, spraying pesticides, soil care, fertilising, replacing plants, tree Care. Study with trained professionals.

Course Code: VHT100
Fee Code: S2
Duration (approx) Duration (approx) 100 hours
Qualification Statement of Attainment
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LEARN TO BE A PROFESSIONAL GARDENER

Maintaining gardens isn't just about mowing lawns - Gardeners with skills that place them beyond lawn mowing are in ever increasing demand. Understand the needs of plants throughout the garden: learn how to prune correctly, to see signs of stress in plants and to be able to rectify problems and to prevent them. Understand what it takes to maintain healthy beautiful gardens and run your business efficiently.

We usually think of garden maintenance as a summer priority when lawns, weeds and plants grow vigorously but even in winter a garden may deteriorate without regular maintenance.   Proper maintenance however costs both time and money. Fortunately, there are shortcuts but these require knowledge and the right materials and equipment.

THE TUTORS

  • Learn from an international team or renowned horticultural experts led by John Mason, Fellow Institute of Horticulture (UK), Fellow Australian Institute of Horticulture, Fellow Parks and Leisure Australia.  John is also a former nurseryman, parks director, and is one of the most prolific gardening authors from Australia -many of his books being used by other schools and universities to teach horticulture across Australia and beyond.
  • A unique opportunity to connect and learn from our international faculty that includes Rosemary Davies (formerly Garden Advisory Service, and Age Garden Writer, Melbourne),  Maggi Brown (former Education officer for Garden Organic, UK), Gavin Cole (former Operations Manager for the Chelsea Gardener, London), and Dr Lyn Morgan (renowned Hydroponic expert from New Zealand); and a host of other equally qualified professionals. 
  • See profiles of our faculty at https://www.acs.edu.au/about-us/staff/default.aspx

 

Lesson Structure

There are 10 lessons in this course:

  1. Introduction Planning and managing a garden.
    • Cost of Maintenance
    • Expensive and Less Expensive areas of a garden
    • Planning
    • Garden Checklists
    • Analysing Maintenance of Parks and Gardens
    • Organising Garden Maintenance Staff
  2. Garden Furnishings and Machinery
    • What Tool for What Job
    • Overview of Machinery
    • Mowers and How to Mow
    • Aerators, Chippers, Mechanised Sprayers, Chain Saws, Brush Cutters, etc.
    • Tractors
    • Tool Maintenance
    • Engine Troubleshooting
    • Outdoor Furniture -plastic, timber, metal
    • Protecting Furnishings -paints, stains, preservatives
  3. Feeding Plants
    • Symptoms of Nutritional and other Problems
    • Conducting an Inspection of Plants
    • Soil Characteristics and identification of Soil Issues
    • Review of Plant Nutrition
    • Choosing the Right Fertiliser
    • Diagnosing Nutritional Problems
    • Improving soils
  4. Weed Control
    • Nature and Scope of Weed Problems
    • Natural Ways to Control Weeds -suffocation, burning, cultivation, etc
    • Common groups of weeds and options for treating and recognising different weed varieties.
  5. Weedicides
    • How Weeds Spread
    • Types of chemicals found in weedicides and suitable weedicide
    • Which chemical would control the weed.
    • Chemicals and the Law
  6. Natural Pest Control
    • Scope and Nature of Natural Controls
    • Cultural Controls
    • Mechanical Control Methods
    • Physical Control Methods
    • Methods for controlling selected insects
    • Companion Planting
    • Common Environmental Problems
    • Tolerance Levels in different plants
    • Biological Controls
    • Natural Sprays
    • Buffer Zones
    • Mulching
  7. Chemical Pest Control
    • Integrated Pest Management (IPM)
    • Ways of Applying Chemicals
    • Safety with Chemicals
    • Understanding Pesticides -toxicity, LD50, Persistence, etc.
    • Specific chemical treatments and a summary of pesticides.
  8. Turf Management
    • Common Turf Problems
    • Turf Pests
    • Chemical Damage
    • Establishment and Maintenance of Lawns
    • Mowing, Fertilizing, Aeration, etc
    • Turf varieties, appropriate turf for specific areas, low and high maintenance turf.
  9. Irrigation
    • Importance of Water
    • Water Loss from different soils & Improving Water retention
    • Understanding Water Dynamics in soil
    • Irrigation -types of systems
    • Planning an irrigation system
    • Using an irrigation system
    • Controlling slippery surfaces
  10. Maintenance of Plants
    • Why Prune
    • Before Pruning
    • Time of Pruning: Does it matter?
    • What to consider when pruning
    • Removing Dead Wood
    • Controlling shape and size
    • How to prune different types of plants

Each lesson culminates in an assignment which is submitted to the school, marked by the school's tutors and returned to you with any relevant suggestions, comments, and if necessary, extra reading.

Aims

  • Evaluate the maintenance needs and develop a plan for maintaining a garden.
  • Select and maintain tools and equipment appropriately for use in garden maintenance.
  • Describe maintenance requirements for garden structures such as furniture, gates and fencing.
  • Maintain appropriate nutrition requirements for healthy plant growth.
  • Control weeds in a garden.
  • Use weedicides in a safe and effective way.
  • Control pests using non chemical methods.
  • Use chemical pesticides safely and efficiently.
  • Maintain lawns in a healthy and well maintained condition.
  • Describe options for managing water in a garden.
  • Determine actions that should be taken to maintain a variety of different plants.

Following is an article by our Principal, John Mason an expert horticulturist and Fellow of the AIH.

MAKE SURE THIS COURSE IS RIGHT FOR YOU - SPEAK WITH AN EXPERT BEFORE ENROLLING BY CLICKING ON THE 'TALK TO AN EXPERT BOX' AT THE END OF THIS PAGE. 

OPERATE A GARDEN MAINTENANCE SERVICE BUSINESS

A garden maintenance business provides services that help to maintain the general health or condition, and the presentation of a garden. These services might include such things as lawn mowing, lawn repair and renovation, pruning, spraying pesticides, fertilising or soil care, replacing old or sick plants, maintaining indoor plants, tree lopping or tree surgery.

There was a time when anyone could start this type of business and as long as they were prepared to do physical work, and sweat a little, they would have a reasonable chance of success. Garden maintenance today is however increasingly sophisticated, and increasingly mechanised. If you are to do jobs as well as your competition, you must have some basic knowledge. Very often you also need the right machinery or you will simply take longer to do a job, and sooner or later the clients will discover that they can get more for their money by employing a better equipped gardener.

Many home and business owners will contact their local nursery to obtain gardening services, or pay extra to have plants installed rather than digging and planting themselves. Contracting your services through a nursery is a good starting point for a new garden maintenance business, or can be an opportunity for an existing business.

 

PLANT CARE

The key to any successful gardening business is to understand plant care.

Healthy plants grow stronger, live longer and look better. Everyone wants their plants to be healthy, and with the right plants and the appropriate treatment, there is no reason why all of your plants can't look just as good as anything you would buy from a nursery.

When a plant becomes unhealthy, it's usually because the environment is unkind to it. The temperature may be too hot or cold, it might be too wet or dry, it may have too much or too little fertilizer, or perhaps something else is affecting it. Often a sick plant is found to be suffering from attack by a pest or disease problem; but those problems are far more likely to occur on plants which are already suffering because environmental conditions are not suitable.

The first step towards having healthy plants in a garden is to only keep healthy plants in the garden. If you are designing a garden for someone, or advising a client on what to plant in their garden consider the following:

  • Be careful to choose plants which are best suited to the particular soil and environment. This might mean some "terrific" varieties should not be grown; but why grow such plants if they are never going to perform to their peak in that particular environment.
  • If the client is determined to grow particular plants that are not suited to the local environmental conditions then consider ways in which those environmental conditions can be modified to suit such plants. For example, provide extra shade for shade loving plants using shade-cloth.
  • ‑Be ruthless and get rid of sick plants (or branches) before they become diseased and affect other plants.
     

WHY PLANTS GET SICK

Plants can get sick just as easily as people. The problems they encounter can include:

*PESTS...Animals of various sizes and forms (from microscopic worms to dogs, birds, grazing animals, even humans). Insects are just one of many groups of animals which can cause damage to plants, although they are perhaps the most significant group of plant pests.

*DISEASES...These are problems caused by living organisms other than animals. Fungi, bacteria and virus are the most common.

*ENVIRONMENTAL DISORDERS....Troubles caused by soils, nutritional problems, bad weather conditions such as frost, wind, cold, heat, or poor drainage.

*WEEDS...Plants growing where you don't want them. It is the location of a plant which makes it a weed, NOT the species of the plant. A weed will compete with your desired plants for nutrients, water and space, which can be harmful to your desired plants.

They may also act as hosts to pests and diseases which can affect your desired plants.

PREVENTATIVE MEDICINE IN THE GARDEN

The best way to be sure that problems like those outlined above do not occur in gardens you are maintaining is to prevent problems from ever starting.

This is best done by following the standard procedures listed below:

1. CONSIDER THE SITE

Does it have any particular problems which should be treated?

  • Hard clay soils...need to be loosened up by cultivation, or by adding soil conditioners such as lime or gypsum, or by incorporating organic matter, such as well rotted manures and compost.
  • Sandy soils can sometimes dry out too easily or be low in nutrients. To overcome these problems add well rotted manures or compost.
  • Winds...provide wind breaks or channel winds with fences or plantings, or provide suitable staking or support until plants are well established.
  • Shade...large existing trees, or buildings, can create very shady areas. In such areas select plants to grow that will tolerate or even prefer periods of shade.
  • Frost pockets...on sloping sites remove a frost pocket by planting or fencing in a way that allows air movement to continue unimpeded down the slope.
  • Other soil problems, such as low nutrient levels, or diseases may have built up, particularly where the same type of plant has been grown in a particular spot year after year, or the soil may be full of a mat of dead roots. Consider cultivating and building up the soil, and replanting with different types of plants that are not susceptible to any particular diseases that may be present.

2. BUILD UP THE SOIL

Before you even start a new garden, make sure the soil is in top condition. Make sure drainage, nutrition and the structure (crumbly and easily worked) of the soil is suitable for the plants you wish to grow. This may involve laying drainage pipes, applying fertilizers, gypsum (to help improve structure in heavy soils) or lime, or digging in manure and compost (to improve structure and nutrients). Kill existing soil pests or weeds first if you have any particularly serious problems.

3. USE HEALTHY PLANTS/SEEDS

Healthy plants are more likely to resist damage from pests and diseases, and more likely to recover if they are attacked. When choosing plants the roots and top growth of the plant should be well developed. There should be no deformed growths (eg: twisted, distorted leaves, swellings on roots). Avoid plants with badly marked leaves. Don't use plants contaminated with insects. Seeds and bulbs should be fresh, free of abnormal markings or any rots. Don't compromise on quality. Trying to save a little money by buying plants that are not in top condition will cost you a lot more in the long term, through plant losses, higher maintenance requirements, and to your reputation.

Varieties which are resistant to diseases/pests are better. Use varieties known to be successful in the locality of your clients property. Look around local gardens and see what grows best.

4. MAINTAIN CLEANLINESS

  • Remove any diseased fruit, flowers, leaves,or other plant parts, and burn them. Do not compost them or let them lay on the ground!
  • Wash soil off paths and concrete areas. Soil tracked from one area to another may spread diseases.
  • Sit plants in containers on stones or paving, or on top of a couple of bricks (not directly on top of soil). This minimises movement of disease from the soil up into the pot.
  • Be careful not to wear dirty boots into a propagation area...this can carry diseases from the general garden into the propagation area.
  • Hoses and their fittings should be neatly stored above ground so that they are not in contact with the ground, otherwise they can pick up diseases easily and spread them rapidly when used.
  • All tools should be regularly cleaned of soil and other debris. Tools used for cutting plant tissue should be regularly disinfected (e.g. dipped in "metho" or a disinfectant such as Detol).

5. MAINTAIN THE NUTRITION & WATER NEEDS OF THE PLANT

Do not over water or underwater...both are as bad as each other! Over watering (water logging) is indicated by yellowing of the lower leaves, sometimes wilting and eventually dropping of the lower leaves. Under watering is indicated by browning of the tips and foliage generally, and at times by severe wilting and leaf drop. Lack of nutrients is indicated by a slow rate of growth, and in severe cases, by discolouration patterns on leaves.

6. INSPECT PLANTS REGULARLY AND ACT AS SOON AS A PROBLEM IS DETECTED

Look at tips first. The young growth will indicate general vigor (or lack of it). Look for die‑back, discolouration of leaves or wood, distortion of growth, rots, eaten or broken tissue.

Why Study This Course?

Garden maintenance probably accounts for more than half of most landscape gardeners work, but it can also be a business in itself. Although much can be learned hands-on, people working in garden maintenance may not be exposed to all the different possible areas which can be involved in this type of work. You can also only learn what your supervisors or co-workers are able to pass on to you. This course covers a wide range of knowledge so that graduates are equipped to deal with all sorts of different gardening problems.

This course is ideally suited to people working in, or hoping to work in:

  • Garden maintenance
  • Landscape gardening
  • Garden renovation & restoration
  • General horticulture
  • Parks and gardens
  • Garden tourism
Principal of ACS Distance Education, John Mason, is fellow of the CIH.
Principal of ACS Distance Education, John Mason, is fellow of the CIH.
Member of Study Gold Coast Education Network.
Member of Study Gold Coast Education Network.
ACS Global Partner - Affiliated with colleges in seven countries around the world.
ACS Global Partner - Affiliated with colleges in seven countries around the world.
Member Nursery and Garden Industry Association.
Member Nursery and Garden Industry Association.

How can I start this course?

You can enrol at anytime and start the course when you are ready. Enrolments are accepted all year - students can commence study at any time. All study is self paced and ACS does not set assignment deadlines.

Please note that if a student is being assisted by someone else (e.g. an employer or government subsidy), the body offering the assistance may set deadlines. Students in such situations are advised to check with their sponsor prior to enrolling. The nominal duration of a course is approximately how long a course takes to complete. A course with a nominal duration of 100 hours is expected to take roughly 100 hours of study time to complete. However, this will vary from student to student. Short courses (eg. 100 hrs duration) should be completed within 12 months of enrolment. Certificates, Advanced Certificates and Awards (eg. over 500 hours duration) would normally be completed within 3 -5 years of enrolment. Additional fees may apply if a student requires an extended period to complete.
If a student cannot submit their assignments for 6 months to ACS, they should advise the school to avoid cancellation of their student
registration. Recommencement fees may apply.

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What do I need to know before I enrol?

There are no entry requirements that you need to meet to enrol in our courses, our courses are for everyone.
If you are under 18, we need written permission from your parent/ guardian for your enrolment to continue, we can arrange that after you have enrolled.

You don’t need to purchase any additional resources to complete our courses.

We aim to teach you the essentials without you having to purchase any specific computer program.
We recommend that you have access to a word processing program, such as Microsoft Word or Google Docs, so that you can easily complete and submit your assignments.

You sure can. We are here to help you learn whatever your abilities.

Yes, if you are enrolling in a Certificate or Advanced Certificate, you might be eligible for credits if you have evidence of your previous studies or relevant experience. More information is here.

We recommend that you are able to browse websites, send emails and conduct online research. You will need to be able to type and submit your assignments.
If you have limited computer skills, we can make special arrangements for you.

This is possible, it depends on the institution. We recommend that if you would like to use our courses that you contact the institution first. Our Course Handbook is a good resource for this.

Our courses are written in English and we only have English speaking academic staff. If you can read and complete your assignments in English, our courses are ideal for you.

Our courses are designed to build knowledge, hands on skills and industry connections to help prepare you to work in the area, running your own business, professional development or as a base for further study.

This course has been designed to cover the fundamentals of the topic. It will take around 100 hours to complete, which includes your course reading, assignment work, research, practical tasks, watching videos and anything else that is contained in the course. Our short courses are a great way to do some professional development or to learn a new skill.

It’s up to you. The study hours listed in the course are a rough guide, however if you were to study a short course (100 hours) at 10 hours per week, you could finish the course in 10 weeks (just an example). Our courses are self-paced, so you can work through the courses in your own time. We recommend that you wait for your tutor to mark and return your assignment before your start your next one, so you get the benefits of their feedback.

The course consists of course notes, videos, set tasks for your practical work, online quizzes, an assignment for each lesson (that you receive feedback from your tutor from) and ends in an exam (which is optional, if would like to receive the formal award at the end), using our custom built Learning Management System - Login.Training.

Our courses are designed for adults to gain professional development and skills to further their careers and start businesses.

Our custom online learning portal allows you to conduct your learning online. There may be practical tasks that you can do offline. You have the option of downloading your course notes or print them to read later.

There is also the option to pay an additional fee for printed course notes and or USB (availability limited to location and deliverability).

Yes, if you don’t have access to the internet, you can receive the course as paper notes or on a USB stick for an additional fee. We can also make alternative arrangements for you to send your assignments to us.

We offer printed notes for an additional fee. Also, you can request your course notes on a USB stick for an additional fee.

Yes, your tutor is here to help you. Simply post any questions you have in your login.training portal or contact the office and we can pass on a message to your tutor.

We are more learning focussed, rather than assessment focussed. You have online quizzes to test your learning, written assignments and can complete an exam at the end of the course (if you want to receive your certificate). You will not receive a pass/ fail on your course work. If you need to add more details on your assignment, we will ask you to resubmit and direct you where you need to focus. If you need help, you can ask your tutor for advice in the student room.

Each module (short course) is completed with one exam.

Exams are optional, however you must sit an exam if you would like to receive a formal award. You will need to find someone who can supervise that you are sitting the exams under exams conditions. There is an additional cost of $60 incl. GST for each exam.
More information is here

There are practical components built into the course that have been designed to be achieved by anyone, anywhere. If you are unable to complete a task for any reason, you can ask your tutor for an alternative.

When you complete the course work and the exam and you will be able receive your course certificate- a Statement of Attainment. Otherwise, you can receive a Letter of Completion.

You can bundle the short courses to create your own customised learning bundle, Certificates or Advanced Certificates. More information is on this page.

Yes, our courses are built to be applicable for people living anywhere in any situation. We provide the fundamentals, and each student can apply their own unique flair for their own interests, region and circumstances with the one-on-one guidance of a tutor. There is also a bit of student directed research involved.

Employers value candidates with industry skills, knowledge, practical skills and formal learning. Our courses arm you with all of these things to help prepare you for a job or start your own business. The longer you study the more you will learn.

ACS has an arrangement with OAMPS (formerly AMP) who can arrange Professional Indemnity from Australian and New Zealand graduates across all disciplines. Ph: 1800 222 012 or email acs@oamps.com.au.


Who are ACS Distance Education?

ACS Distance Education have been educating people for over 40 years.

We are established and safe- we have been in education for over 40 years.
We are focused on developing innovative courses that are relevant to you now and what you will need to know in the future.
We are focused on helping you learn and make the most of your experience.
You can enrol at any time, you can work on your course when it suits you and at your own pace.
We are connected to many industry bodies and our staff participate in continuous improvement and learning activities to ensure that we are ahead of what learning is needed for the future.

Our courses are not accredited by the Australian Government. However many of our courses are recognised and held in high regard by many industry bodies.

Our courses are written by our staff, who all have many years experience and have qualifications in their speciality area. We have lots of academic staff who write and update our courses regularly.


How do I enrol my staff/ sponsored students?

Yes, you can do a request for a bulk enrolment and request an invoice on our Invoice Request Form

We can prepare an invoice, quote or proforma invoice. Simply complete your details on our Invoice Request form

We can arrange bulk discounts for your course enrolment, please get in touch with us to discuss your needs.

Yes, we have many students who are in locked facilities, such as prisons or hospitals. We can cater by also offering paper notes at an additional cost.


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Course Contributors

The following academics were involved in the development and/or updating of this course.

Adriana Fraser (Horticulturist)

Over 30 years working in horticulture, as a gardener, propagator, landscape designer
, teacher and consultant. Adriana has spent much of her life living on large properties, developing and maintaining her own gardens, and living a semi self sufficient lifestyle. She has decades of practical experience growing her own fruit, vegetables and herbs, and making her own preserves. She is well connected with horticulture professionals across Australia, and amongst other things, for a period, looked after Australia's national collection of Thymus. Advanced Diploma in Horticulture, Advanced Certificate in Horticulture.

Rosemary Davies (Horticulturist)

Leading horticultural expert in Australia.
Rosemary trained in Horticultural Applied Science at Melbourne University. Initially she worked with Agriculture Victoria as an extension officer, taught horticulture students, worked on radio with ABC radio (clocking up over 24 years as a presenter of garden talkback programs, initially the only woman presenter on gardening in Victoria) and she simultaneously developed a career as a writer.
She then studied Education and Training, teaching TAFE apprentices and developing curriculum for TAFE, before taking up an offer as a full time columnist with the Herald and Weekly Times and its magazine department after a number of years as columnist with the Age. She has worked for a number of companies in writing and publications, PR community education and management and has led several tours to Europe.
In 1999 Rosemary was BPW Bendigo Business Woman of the Year and is one of the founders and the Patron, of the Friends of the Bendigo Botanic gardens. She has completed her 6th book this year and is working on concepts for several others.
Rosemary has a B Ed, BSc Hort, Dip Advertising & Marketing

Jacinda Cole (Horticulturist)

B.Sc., Cert.Garden Design. Landscape Designer, Operations Manager, Consultant, Garden Writer.
She was operations manager for a highly reputable British Landscape firm (The Chelsea Gardener) before starting up her own landscaping firm. She spent three years working in our Gold Coast office, as a tutor and writer for Your Backyard (gardening magazine) which we produced monthly for a Sydney punlisher between 1999 and 2003. Since then, Jacinda has contributed regularly to many magazines, co authored several gardening books and is currently one of the "garden experts" writing regularly for the "green living" magazine "Home Grown".

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