Plant Selection And Establishment

Course CodeBHT107
Fee CodeS2
Duration (approx)100 hours
QualificationStatement of Attainment
  

Learn What Plants to Plant Where

 
Plant Knowledge is the foundation for any good landscaping

If you choose inappropriate and unpredictable plants, a garden can grow into something that was unforeseen by the landscaper (and that really defeats the whole reason for landscaping!)
 
This course is a wonderful foundation for landscapers and students of landscaping.

Learning about plants is in reality, a lifelong journey of discovery; but that journey is so much easier to walk, and more productive; if you have a proper and fundamental understanding of "plant selection and use".
 

Save

Lesson Structure

There are 10 lessons in this course:

  1. Introduction
    • What to plant where, Plant selection, Plant varieties, Colourful year round foliage, Establishment (timing, soil preparation, plant size, planting technique), Maintenance programs, etc
  2. Woody plants
    • Selecting woody plants, trees, shrubs, deciduous/semi deciduous/evergreen; flowering shrubs, Establishing woody plants, Planting procedure, Dealing with shade, etc
  3. Windbreaks, hedges and screens
    • Plant selection, establishing windbreaks & screens, Trimming a hedge, etc
  4. Alpine and water plants
    • Selecting & establishing alpines, Selecting water plants, Establishment & maintenance of water plants
  5. Annual and herbaceous plants
    • Selecting annuals, Types of annuals (by height, flower, edge plants, dot plants, groundwork plants), types of bedding schemes, Planting seed or seedlings, Container culture, Selection & Establishment of herbaceous plants (Bulbs & Perennials), Maximizing flowering effect, etc
  6. Turf
    • Varieties, Lawn mixes, What to grow where, Wildflower Meadows, Turf establishment, Soil Preparation, Seeding, Sodding, Stolonizing, Sprigging, Plugging, Mowing, Fertilising, etc
  7. Maintenance
    • Fertilizing, Managing pH, Replacing plants, Pruning, Irrigation, Humidity, Mulch, Developing a maintenance Program,
  8. Pest and disease control
    • Problem prevention, Non chemical control, Chemical control,
  9. Weed control
    • Non chemical control, Chemical control, Safety, Alternative strategies.
  10. Risk assessment
    • Identifying risk, Duty of care, Workplace safety, Protective clothing, Safety with tools, Significance of illness, etc

Each lesson culminates in an assignment which is submitted to the school, marked by the school's tutors and returned to you with any relevant suggestions, comments, and if necessary, extra reading.

Aims

  • Develop knowledge of the range of applications for and selection and establishment of horticultural plants.
  • Develop knowledge in the establishment and maintenance of a range of woody plants, with different modes of growth, for different situations
  • Develop knowledge in selection, establishment, and maintenance of species suitable for hedges windbreaks and screens.
  • Describe the cultivation of alpine and water plants.
  • Describe the selection, cultivation, and maintenance of herbaceous plants.
  • Explain the selection, establishment and maintenance of turf and lawns.
  • Explain the maintenance and cultural requirements of herbaceous, woody, and other plants.
  • Consider the different pest and disease control implications resulting from the choice of different plant varieties.
  • Determine pest and disease control requirements for a new garden.
  • Explain the control of weeds in a garden.
  • Explain the implications upon weed management that result from selection of particular plants for use in a garden.
  • Manage establishment and maintenance of plants in a way that minimizes safety risks to people working in or visiting a garden.

What You Will Do

  • This course involves far more than just reading and answering questions. Here are just some examples of other things which you might be doing:
  • Visiting different gardens, nurseries and/or parks. These could include home gardens, parks, commercial or any other type of site. The choice is yours.
  • If for some reason (eg. Disability or isolation) you are unable to physically visit gardens or other places, you may undertake a "virtual visit" using the internet; and liaise via email.
  • Survey or interview industry people.
  • Analyse and devise maintenance plants for different areas.
  • Research the cause of an incident.
  • Prepare a weed collection of either pressings, photographs or illustrations.

 
If you would like to speak with a member of our academic staff or have email contact then click on the 'Talk To An Expert'.

Our academic staff can help you to select a course that is right for you, or discuss how our courses work to give you hands-on as well as theoretical knowledge.We've spent over 35 years perfecting it!
 

How to establish and maintain a Border of Bulbs and Perennials

Herbaceous borders are a high maintenance area in a garden and include multi-crowned perennials and bulbs.

Often an herbaceous plant does not need heavy feeding when first planted as it will initially utilise its stored food supply. Because they are mostly grown for flowers, they generally need larger amounts of potash than other nutrients.

They usually also have a dormant period and can be susceptible to rotting if left in a moist situation during dormancy (i.e. their metabolism is slow in dormancy - this means their defence mechanisms are lower). Most herbaceous plants prefer a rich, organic, well-drained loam. They thrive in soil that has been prepared with rotted manure or compost prior to planting. Sunny but cool positions are excellent. They can often burn if there is too much heat or wind.

  • Some plants will need to be lifted and divided every two to three years to stop them spreading and taking over the entire border and also to rejuvenate the plants. Plants can be lifted from the ground and pulled apart using two garden forks or by hand. Place the forks back to back in the centre of the plants and pull the handles together then apart again to separate the crowns. Trim the top growth and replant the outer vigorous young growth or crowns.
  • Whilst the borders are free of plants cultivate the areas to be replanted and incorporate compost and rake level.
  • Re-plant perennial crowns with the top of the crown just above the soil surface, spacing them according to the rate of growth and the frequency they are separated. Bulbs will need to be planted at double the depth in relation to the size of the bulbs. Rhizomes are planted level with the surface.
  • Mulch the surface to a depth of approximately 3-5cm.
  • Aerate the surface by lightly forking the area regularly throughout the growing season.
  • Check irrigation systems whilst the beds are empty and adjust/maintain or install a system a necessary.
  • Trim perennials with floppy growth early in the season and remove spent flower heads to promote further flowers.
  • Stake taller perennials (inconspicuously) such as delphiniums etc for support and protection from strong winds
  • Fertilise perennials during spring and/or early summer.
  • Remove dying or dead foliage in autumn.
How to Grow Bulbs

Though there are variations and exceptions, the following generalisations can be made about bulbs, corms, rhizomes and tubers:

  • Because they all have a store of food, they do not need heavy feeding when first planted.
  • Because they are all grown for flowers, they do need larger amounts of potash than other nutrients.
  • They have a dormant period, they can be susceptible to rotting if left in a moist situation during dormancy (i.e. their metabolism is slow in dormancy - this means their defence mechanisms are lower).
  • Most prefer a rich, organic, well drained loam.  They thrive on soil which has been prepared with rotted manure or compost prior to planting.  These things provide a slow release for nutrients which is very appropriate for bulbs.
  • Sunny but cool positions are excellent.  They can often burn if there is too much heat of wind.

Bulbs usually have sufficient nutrients stored within the dormant tissue to produce flowers, without additional feeding; however, growth will be stronger and the bulb that forms when the plant enters dormancy again with more fertility. You can get concentrated, fast acting fertilizers (which will feed more to the plant, quicker); or slower acting, long term fertilizers, and there are many possibilities in between these two extremes.

Most bulbs are better with slower acting fertilisers. Usually a slower acting fertilizer is more appropriate with planting - particularly in sandy soils. Avoid stronger fertilisers directly contacting tender tissues (e.g. leaves, new roots or the dormant bulb).  Organic fertilisers are in the main slower; as are pellet fertilisers or anything that does not dissolve readily and thoroughly in water.

Want to Learn More?
Use our Free Advisory Service
 
 
 
 
 
or Enrol Now
 
over the phone (07) 5562 1088 OR
 
 
online -go to top of the page for enrolment (right column)
 
 

Save

Credentials

Member of the Institute of Horticulture Careers Advisory Bureau
Member of the Institute of Horticulture Careers Advisory Bureau

ACS Global Partner - Affiliated with colleges in seven countries around the world.
ACS Global Partner - Affiliated with colleges in seven countries around the world.

Member Nursery and Garden Industry Association
Member Nursery and Garden Industry Association

ACS is recognised by the International Accreditation and Recognition Council
ACS is recognised by the International Accreditation and Recognition Council



Need assistance?



Start Now!


      


  Adriana Fraser

Over 30 years working in horticulture, as a gardener, propagator, landscape designer , teacher and consultant. Adriana has spent much of her life living on large properties, developing and maintaining her own gardens, and living a semi self sufficient lifestyle. She has decades of practical experience growing her own fruit, vegetables and herbs, and making her own preserves. She is well connected with horticulture professionals across Australia, and amongst other things, for a period, looked after Australia's national collection of Thymus. Advanced Diploma in Horticulture, Advanced Certificate in Horticulture.
  Gavin Cole

B.Sc., Cert.Garden Design. Landscape Designer, Operations Manager, Consultant, Garden Writer. He was operations manager for a highly reputable British Landscape firm (The Chelsea Gardener) before starting up his own landscaping firm. He spent three years working in our Gold Coast office, as a tutor and writer for Your Backyard (gardening magazine) which we produced monthly for a Sydney punlisher between 1999 and 2003. Since then, Gavin has contributed regularly to many magazines, co authored several gardening books and is currently one of the "garden experts" writing regularly for the "green living" magazine "Home Grown".
  John Mason

Parks Manager, Nurseryman, Landscape Designer, Garden Writer and Consultant. Over 40 years experience; working in Victoria, Queensland and the UK. He is one of the most widely published garden writers in the world; author of more than 70 books and editor for 4 different gardening magazines. John has been recognised by his peers being made a fellow of the Institute of Horticulture in the UK, as well as by the Australian Institute of Horticulture.
  Robert James

B.App. Sc. (Horticulture), Dip.Ag., M.Sc., Grad Dip.Mgt. Over 50 years experience that includes, Nursery Manager Brisbane City Councoil, Grounds Manager (University of Qld), Lecturer Qld Agricultural College, Propagator/Nurseryman at Aspley Nursery, Horticulturist, Horticultural Scientist, and Horticultural Consultant
  Growing Conifers
The great thing about conifers is they look good all year round. Most of them are grown for foliage, and in general, foliage remains the same pretty well all year. Unlike other trees and shrubs, you do not have a month of attractive flowers, followed by an obscure plant the remainder of the year. A brilliant blue of gold foliage conifer will be blue or gold month in, month out.
  Scented Plants
Scented plants can be either a delight or a curse. For many people, there is nothing more pleasing than a garden filled with fragrance, but for others who suffer allergies, certain plants can make them physically ill; sometimes very seriously.
  Climbing Plants
“A doctor can bury his mistakes, but an architect can only advise his clients to plant vines.” ― Frank Lloyd Wright This e-book is a wonderful guide to climbing plants. Complete with full colour photographs, it is ideal for the home gardening enthusiast, landscape designer, or architect.
  Trees and Shrubs for Warm Places
A stunning book with around 300 colour photos! A comprehensive reference to thousands of tropical plant varieties (mostly different information to the Tropical Plants book) . An classic reference for nurserymen, landscapers, interior plantscapers, horticulturists and any tropical plant enthusiasts. 209 pages