Certificate In Arboriculture

Work with confidence in the arboriculture sector

This course develops the knowledge and skills needed to work in arboriculture, and provides essential background training in plant identification, selection and care.

• 6 specific modules - no time wasted on useless courses
• Get horticultural and arboriculture knowledge and skills
• Study from home - no hassles, save time and money
• Work with confidence and passion
• Learn all aspects of tree care

Recognised by the International Accreditation and Recognition Council (IARC)

This certificate focuses on the culture and care of trees, providing a sound foundation for any working or hoping to work with tree establishment or maintenance. Unlike many other courses in arboriculture, this course also provides a broad foundation across all aspects of horticulture.

“An entry level course – it enables you work with confidence in the arboriculture sector. Rather then just learning how to cut down trees (as is the case in so many courses in this sector) This course also covers general horticultural knowledge - very important in the general care of trees it also helps to expand the services you are able to offer.” - Adriana Fraser Cert.Hort., Cert.Child Care, Adv.Cert.App.Mgt., Cert IV Assessment and Training, Adv.Dip.Hort, ACS Tutor.

Modules

Note that each module in the Certificate In Arboriculture is a short course in its own right, and may be studied separately.

Prepare Before and After You Plant

Consider The Site

Does it have any particular problems which should be treated?

• Hard clay soils need to be loosened up by cultivation, or by adding soil conditioners such as lime or gypsum, or by incorporating organic matter, such as well rotted manures and compost.
• Sandy soils can sometimes dry out too easily or be low in nutrients. To overcome these problems add well rotted manures or compost, or wetting agents.
• Check soil pH (the degree of acidity or alkalinity). Most plants prefer a slightly acid or neutral soil (pH of about 6 to 7.5). Some plants such as Camellias, Azaleas, Daphne and Citrus prefer a pH that is a little more acid than this (less than 6), while other plants (eg. Lilacs) prefer a pH slightly more alkaline. Simple test kits can be readily obtained from nurseries, garden centers, etc. You can then either choose plants that like the pH of your soil/growing media, or you might alter the pH to suit the plants you wish to grow. pH can be raised by the addition of lime, or lowered by the addition of acidifying materials such as Manures, Sulphate of Ammonia, or Sulphur powder (only for small areas as it is relatively expensive).
• Provide wind breaks or channel winds with fences or planting, to both protect tender plants and ensure good ventilation (If the garden is totally enclosed, air movement is restricted, and that can result in an increase in diseases.
• If necessary, select plants to grow that will tolerate or even prefer periods of shade.

Build Up the Soil

Before you even start a new garden, make sure the soil is in top condition. Make sure drainage, nutrition, the soil type (e.g. sandy, clayey), and the structure of the soil is suitable for the plants you wish to grow. This may involve laying drainage pipes; applying fertilizers, gypsum (to improve the structure of clay soils) or lime; or digging in manure & compost. Thoroughly get rid of existing weeds.

Use Healthy Plants

Healthy plants are more likely to resist damage from pests and diseases, and more likely to recover if they are attacked. The roots and top growth of the plant should be well developed. There should be no deformed growths (eg: twisted, distorted leaves, swellings on roots). Avoid plants with badly marked leaves. Don't use plants contaminated with insects or other pests. Seeds and bulbs should be fresh, free of abnormal markings or any rots.

Keep thing Clean

Remove any diseased fruit, flowers, leaves, or other plant parts, and burn them (do not compost them or let them lay on the ground!). Wash soil off paths, pavers, concrete areas - soil tracked from one area to another may spread disease. Sit plants in containers on stones or paving, or on top of a couple of bricks (not directly on top of soil). This minimises movement of pest & disease organisms from the soil up into the pot. Keep hoses, particularly the nozzles stored off the ground, ideally on a reel or rack to minimise contact with the ground where they may come in contact with disease organisms.

Maintain Nutrients and Water

Do not over water or underwater...both are as bad as each other! Over watering (waterlogging) is indicated by yellowing of the lower leaves, sometimes wilting and eventually dropping of the lower leaves. Under watering is indicated by browning of the tips and foliage generally, and at times by severe wilting and leaf drop. Lack of nutrients is indicated by a slow rate of growth, and in severe cases, by discolouration patterns on leaves.

In small gardens you need to keep the deepest roots moist; otherwise you will encourage roots to come to the surface in search of water. Do this by giving the garden a good soaking less often, rather than frequent light irrigations. A drip irrigation system is ideal for this purpose.

Inspect Plants

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